Walking with Pilgrims: The Calon Cathedral and the Tale of the Dancing Porkchop

“They travel for devotion’s sake, but often find their own desires.”

Marguerite of Navarre (1492–1549) humorously observes that people may set out on a pilgrmage for religious reasons, personal motives often slip into the journey.

Hey, all! At the June 2024 Calontir Lilies War, I had the pleasure of taking a unique class taught by M. Conna ingen Ui Chearbhaill on the Lilies War Pilgrimage. In her class, we learned about the delightful medieval tale of the Dancing Porkchop, and how it’s connected to a short pilgrimage around the Lilies War site. While the full pilgrimage starts at the “food court” and winds around the entire site, ending at the Calon Cathedral, my schedule was packed that Wednesday. So, I decided to join the group midway and walked with them to the Cathedral instead.

The Calon Cathedral is a beautiful spot made up of two parts: the Falcon Chapel, created in 2017 as Kristine Nic Tallier’s vigil tent, and the Chapel of the Dancing Porkchop, which warmly welcomes all Calontir pilgrims. The Cathedral features eight “windows,” each celebrating different aspects of Calontir life, as well as a “rose window” that showcases the heraldry of Calontir groups. There are also spaces for two additional windows to honor future events or people.

The Lilies War Pilgrimage for Our Lady of Calontir traditionally begins on Wednesday at 3 pm at the Food Court. Pilgrims, joined by musicians, walk the path while singing Cantiga de Santa Maria No. 149—the Miracle of the Dancing Porkchop. M. Conna offers two optional practice sessions on the Monday and Tuesday before the walk, providing both history and singing practice. For ease of participation, the song’s words are sung in English, and musicians are encouraged to memorize the melody and play as we walk.

The story behind the Miracle of the Dancing Porkchop comes from Songs of Holy Mary of Alfonso X, the Wise, a collection of 13th-century miracle tales written by Alfonso X, King of Castile and León. This particular story tells of a group of pilgrims traveling to Rocamadour. After they ordered supper—nine chops of meat—they left to pray to the Virgin Mary, asking for her intercession for their sins. Upon returning, they discovered one chop had gone missing, stolen by a servant girl. However, after calling on Holy Mary for help, the missing chop miraculously appeared, bouncing around inside a chest. Many witnesses gathered to see this wonder, and in gratitude, the pilgrims hung the chop before the Virgin’s altar.

It’s a charming tale, and next year, I encourage you to come join the fun and be a part of this medieval pilgrimage tradition! You’ll not only get to enjoy a walk through history but also become part of a living, singing story.